Fun in the Bouldering Field

Went to the Westway today, after a long, long time away (it was almost a month before we went to wales that I was last there). Everything is weak on me; grip strength, technique, movement, arm strength. I got pumped trying to climb an easy 4+ lead for gods sake. I just felt stupid and embaressed, especially as I'm meant to have my first taste of winter mountaineering in January!

We spent most of our time in the bouldering field; I was hardly impressive but any training is training, right? Up and down climbs, dynos and big moves can only serve to do me well, but I was really, really bad. It does show that I need to get back to the wall once or twice a week. Maybe I should start to train in the gym too; campus boards and four-finger pullups can be seen in my future...I just need to find the time, honestly. Well we'll see what the future holds for me.

Did have a bit of fun though; quite a nice little bouldering problem that I spent a lot of time on but never quite managed to complete. I decided to film myself to see where I was going wrong, but I still didn't complete. Then Charlie decided to school me.

And totally rub it in.

I'm going to have loads of time to blog over Christmas, so look forward to loads of stuff. I should be off to Scotland in the second week of January, so you'll see all the buildup for that, which I'm sure will leave you all absolutely fascinated and enthralled. All three of you who read this.

See you soon!

Well...this sucks.

Had a climb today. Not a good one. Not a good one by any stretch of the imagination.

Unfortunately I think this is all caused by my visit to the US and the weeks that have followed; when over there I got lazy and fell back into old eating habits; I put on 14lbs in 3 weeks and honestly haven't really done anything about it. I've talked about it with Bailey but I keep being tempted by Two-for-Tuesdays and convenient ice cream offers (especially in this heat). So I'm not in all of that good-a shape, unfortunately, which has a direct impact on my climbing.

Before I left for the US, I was actually climbing to a reasonable standard - I was regularly topping out on 5+ indoor leads and was even top-roping 6a routes. Today I got 75% up a grade 4 lead and had to back down because I couldn't hold myself on to clip in securely. In fact I didn't top out on anything at all - all my flow, my moves, my power and my poise has disappeared. Not saying that I was the world's most elegant climber before I left, but I look like a ham-fisted buffoon up there at the moment. I still have power to do the big moves, but staying static on a hold to clip in saps all of my strength. It's irritating and frankly embarrassing.

A solution to one of my problems. But not a fix-all, upsettingly
enough.

So, I have to work on a plan as to how to rectify this; and quickly - I'm supposed to be leading my first outdoor routes in just over 3 weeks time. My first solution (and the easiest) is to work on my grip strength and endurance. To that end, on the way home today I picked up a tub of Rock Technologies' ExerFlex Power Putty from the good folks at Urban Rock. (I got the medium one to kick off with - it's tough stuff) My plan is to carry it around with me, and in an effort to avoid me picking my nails (which I do a lot, and I'm convinced affects my ability to crimp) have it rolling around in my palm getting squeezed and squished every which way to try and bring my forearm strength up to speed.

I've also resolved to try and get climbing as much as possible, and not just doing top-roped work; I want to get some good bouldering action in to again work on my strength, balance, poise and technique. I won't need a partner so I'm not beholden to climb with anyone which means I can do it pretty much whenever I'm free which is good. I'm also going to try and get to the gym as much as possible to work on pure strength and power, mainly in my upper body and arms - lots of pullups for me!

The intimidating shape of 'The Spike'
following Charlie's successful climb

In matters of a target, me and Charlie discovered something cool at the Westway: indoor climbing walls outdoors. Two great slabs of concrete fitted with climbing holds and pre-placed quickdraws to create some really interesting climbs. I named one (a massive, five-meter wide behemoth that is a permanent, evil-looking overhang) 'The Devil' and the other 'The Spike'. I didn't get far up the main face of the Spike but Charlie took it on, beat it and told me how fun it was. This is my new nemisis. This is my target for the next few weeks - lets see if I can beat it before I get back to Froggatt.