Adventures in Scotland: Day 3 - Curved Ridge (again)

Another day, another mountain. The previously planned day off after our attempt on Ben Nevis went by the wayside thanks to a friendly little weather forecast; having popped into the pub for a meal and talking to the barmaid, we checked out an accurate forecast which told us Wednesday would be awful, but Tuesday would be clear and dry. So the decision was made for us.

As we'd been held up by my slowness on Sunday, we decided to have another crack at Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor and actually summit this time. We set out far earlier, catching breakfast at our B&B and getting onto the walk-in for 9am just as the sun came up, in near-whiteout conditions with low lying fog blocking out the mountains, but undaunted we set off.








Eventually we reached the start of the route, after some fun but sometimes sketchy crampon-less front pointing and losing sight of Charlie (and the ascent route) several times. At about the same height (but further across) as we finished on Sunday, we started actually climbing the route, with Charlie leading the first pitch up and over the ridge. After he got safe I followed. The route was really good fun; not overly technical but challenging for someone new to mixed climbing. There was very little ice or decent snow, so most of the time my ice axe picks and crampon points were teetering on very thin rock seams or torqued into little cracks. I did have one fall, though - a bit of a swinger as I finished removing gear from the wall. My precariously positioned crampon points slipped off their hold and my only placed axe blew under the pressure. It was a bit of a tumble, and I ended up horizontal, facing the wrong way but it wasn't all bad; the line it put me on was a far easier climb, and after burying my axes in some frozen turf I hauled myself up to Charlie's belay position.

We quickly changed over gear and I belayed him on the next pitch. However, as he went up, he realised that the rest of the ridge was poor quality snow and difficult climbing - even the gully that followed next to the ridgeline was full of slushy, partially melted snow and as such was a no-go. After a bit of a discussion we decided it was best if we just cut our losses and descended. Charlie directed that instead of down-climbing the pitch we'd just ascended, we'd traverse around to the snow field we'd played on during Sunday's practice.

Despite being disappointed that we didn't complete the route, we were pleased with our maturity in making the decision to descend (the right one apparently - as we drove away an hour later the entire north face was blanketed in thick cloud) at the right time and the competence we'd both shown in both ascent, traverse and descent was a solid achievement.

Now Wednesday will definitely be a day off. We're going to go into Fort William and spend money on things we don't need. That's the best fun you can have on holiday, isn't it?





(The Adventures in Scotland series is a collection of all my posts from my first foray into winter mountaineering. Find all the others here)

Adventures in Scotland: Day 2 - The Ben

Holy mother of god. Scotland is cold. Mountaineering is hard. My body hurts.

Today's target was to summit Ben Nevis via one of the north face routes, doing some proper climbing and not using the tourist track that winds its way up the easier south face. Although it's called the tourist track, it's still quite an undertaking - especially in winter. Our walk-in from the Glen Nevis Youth Hostel took us on the bottom section of the path, and it's long and sloggy and thigh-testing. We got going at around 8.20 in the morning, just as the sky was brightening - a proper alpine start. Despite the early hour and the cold weather I stripped down to my baselayer on the walk in - it was such hard work that I was sweating enough for water to be freezing on the surface of my shirt. Gross, eh?

Our route however would take us up the north face, so instead of going up we followed the smaller path around, slowly dropping into the freezing line and feeling the reason why the north face is regarded as the harder of most north-hemisphere mountains because the weather sucks. It's windy, it's blowy, it's snowy and it's raining - the reason why over thousands of years the north face has been turned into a vertical, rocky wall whereas the south is a very long, very hard hill. This weather would end up scuppering our initial plans - when we got around to seeing it, the north face looked covered in windslab and about ready to avalanche in places - you could almost feel the tension of the snow on the face, just waiting for the magic amount of vibration or snow to fall for it to go. So, we decided on going up the slightly less vertical west face, summiting the smaller mountain at the edge of the Nevis range and then walking across the plateau, heading up to the summit, topping out and heading back down the tourist path. It shouldn't take anything more than a few hours and we could be home and dry before darkness closed in at around 4 in the afternoon.

However, I am fat, unfit and with little practice in the use of crampons in the ascent over long periods - so I was awful. My technique was off, I had absolutely no energy and my legs started cramping up in muscles that weren't used to being used. It was painful, it was sloggy and I was extremely slow - which (understandably) pissed Charlie off no end. I'd take between 3 and 15 steps and then be out of breath or cramping up and have to stop, and as we were roped together, so did Charlie. If it'd been me I'd probably have untied and just left or retreated off, but being the bloke he is Charlie kept going, kept yelling abuse at me and eventually we got up to Carn Dearg (1,221m) after around 3 hours of climbing, which in reality is far too long. We were only around 100m below the summit of Ben Nevis though, so there wasn't much more slogging left to do before we could summit.

At the stop I took on a massive amount of liquid and forced some food into my body despite my total lack of appetite and eventually felt a bit better and we trudged up towards the summit of Ben Nevis. We were extremely lucky with the weather - absolutely clear skies and bright sunshine greeted us on the plateau, something Charlie (who has summited the Ben 4 or 5 times) has only seen once before. It was truly beautiful, especially with the view out over the south face of all of the snow-capped peaks and the clear valleys. It felt very special. However, as we started to walk towards the summit we watched dark clouds descend and obscure the summit ridge and we decided it would be mature, prudent and the right thing to back off from the summit bid and descend.

On our butts.

It's the best way to get down a mountain.

Not an overly brilliant day as I was, to put it mildly, shit, but we eventually got something done and we realised I really, really need to work on my endurance and leg strength. Hard work paid off with some beautiful views and cracking weather, although it kind of smarts that if I'd been fitter and faster we probably could have made the summit before the weather turned, but I couldn't have physically given any more - I was exhausted. It's a day off tomorrow, so I should be able to get a good meal in me tonight, a good rest and use the pain and suffering I went through today to improve my fitness over the next few days. Let's hope so anyway.

Here's some other photos too:

(The Adventures in Scotland series is a collection of all my posts from my first foray into winter mountaineering. Find all the others here)

Adventures in Scotland: Day 1 - Buachaille Etive Mor

It's been coming for some time, it's been planned, everything had been bought and now finally, after all that, it is winter and I am in the Highlands.

Today is a good day.

We arrived last night at about 6 having driven past the snowy highlands in absolutely beautifully bright moonlight and clear skies, and got set up in our (frankly for the price, palatial) B&B and got a good night's sleep. This morning, it was up at 7.45, a full cooked breakfast and then to the mountains (with a quick detour to Kinlochlaven to get me some crampons).

As today was my first day out on snowy hills, we decided to take it easy and do a simple route on a mountain we'd seen on the way in the night before. It wouldn't be too taxing - conditions aren't perfect but they are far from truly awful - but it would give me a chance to get some solid practice in on a proper ascent and a summit on my first day. We didn't get onto the mountain proper until around 11am, which we would later work out was far too late.

As it turned out it wasn't quite like that, with my inexperience, complete lack of technique and initial lack of fitness and confidence slowing us down quite significantly. One section on the walk-in was rather sketchy and after vainly scrambling on verglassed rock and frozen turf, experiencing a couple of slips and being absolutely 100% convinced I was about to die I grabbed out my ice axes and hauled myself up. Trapsing up to where Charlie was waiting I was met with a little bit of abuse, which to be honest I probably deserved, but it was time to do some proper winter stuff. Now it was onto the first snow field on out chosen route (Curved Ridge, for those wondering), a wide vertical band of snow maybe 150 meters from bottom to top, where we donned crampons and had some practice at self-arrests, ascending, descending and traversing with crampons and ice axe technique.




After all that and having climbed the height of the snow field, we decided that the delay we'd experienced would prevent us from summiting and descending safely before last light. As such, we said we'd do a single pitch route then descend and head home. The route itself wasn't taxing, but climbing with axes and crampons is a new experience, and it was initally a bit uncomfortable using tools on bare rock, but we eventually made it to the top for pasties and a glug or two of hot ribena. Then it was an abseil back down the route which unfortunately a little bit short, necessitating some incredibly sketchy down climbing. After that it was a front-pointing escent of the snow field, crampons off, down the footpath and home for hot ribena and dark chocolate hobnobs.

Looks like we're headed for the Ben tomorrow.

Keen.

Glorious.

(The Adventures in Scotland series is a collection of all my posts from my first foray into winter mountaineering. Find all the others here)

Happy 2014!

Happy new year from TGM!

So Scotland is only a week away.

What!?

Oh christ...

I have an ungodly amount of preparation to do before I go. I've got to buy the bits of my kit that I'm still missing, I have to confirm accomodation, get updated on conditions in the Glencoe area, sort maps, plan plans with Charlie. Oh, and do essays, finish my dissertation draft and work. Time isn't exactly on my side...

Oh well, if this whole affair wasn't expensive and stressful and time consuming it wouldn't be worth it would it!?


Oh, you might also notice that the blog has gone under a slight re-brand. Now that we've been around for about a year, I thought it was time for a bit of an injection of maturity and experience into this whole affair. Things are going to change a little over the next few weeks, so if you're someone who doesn't handle that well...find a coping mechanism. I want to introduce a weekly 'feature' piece too; I'm undecided on what subject, but it sounds cool and seems to be what real-world bloggers do. Plus it'd force me to update more often...

Photos from A Cloudy Place

So Charlie (finally) got around to uploading his, much nicer, far sharper and better composed pictures from our visit to Snowdonia in November.

Enjoy!

Enjoying a warming beverage after the first section of climbing

On the second section of Tryfan, looking down into the Ogwyn valley. That rucksack is as heavy as it looks.

The beautiful view off the west face of Tryfan

The cannon - it feels far more exposed than it looks. Honest.

And my gazelle-like descent.

Hanging out over the Ogywn valley - a rare shot without cloud

"Gorillas in the mist" on Crib Goch

 In news, we have a confirmed date for Scotland - we head up into the great white north on the 11th of January. Kit lists, accomodation booking, sourcing guidebooks and working out plans are in full swing, as is indoor practice. Things are getting better, what with 2/3 sessions a week and I'm back up to confidently climbing 6a+ on a top rope and leading 5+, so we should be in good shape for some proper mountaineering!

See you all soon

Fun in the Bouldering Field

Went to the Westway today, after a long, long time away (it was almost a month before we went to wales that I was last there). Everything is weak on me; grip strength, technique, movement, arm strength. I got pumped trying to climb an easy 4+ lead for gods sake. I just felt stupid and embaressed, especially as I'm meant to have my first taste of winter mountaineering in January!

We spent most of our time in the bouldering field; I was hardly impressive but any training is training, right? Up and down climbs, dynos and big moves can only serve to do me well, but I was really, really bad. It does show that I need to get back to the wall once or twice a week. Maybe I should start to train in the gym too; campus boards and four-finger pullups can be seen in my future...I just need to find the time, honestly. Well we'll see what the future holds for me.

Did have a bit of fun though; quite a nice little bouldering problem that I spent a lot of time on but never quite managed to complete. I decided to film myself to see where I was going wrong, but I still didn't complete. Then Charlie decided to school me.

And totally rub it in.

I'm going to have loads of time to blog over Christmas, so look forward to loads of stuff. I should be off to Scotland in the second week of January, so you'll see all the buildup for that, which I'm sure will leave you all absolutely fascinated and enthralled. All three of you who read this.

See you soon!

Wales, again! Tryfan and Crib Goch

Impromptu weekend away in Wales? Oh yes please!

This isn't going to be a long one, I'm somewhat busy at the moment, but here it is!

The beautiful view of the Ogwyn Valley from about halfway up the North East face of Tryfan

Tryfan
After enjoying a lovely full cooked breakfast at the YHA, me and Charlie set off in the car for the rolling green-and-grey of the Ogwyn Valley, and specifically Tryfan and the Glyder Fach ridge. Initially we started up the North Face path, which if I'm honest was sloggy, steep and painful with our 15-20kg loads. I was slow and extremely tired, slightly annoyed at my own lack of fitness (especially since I've spent so much time in the gym recently...) which meant Charlie kept having to stop to wait for me. Eventually, after about a kilometer on the flat and 150m of elevation change, we moved into the fun bit of the day: Scrambling.

Charlie showing the world how it's done

Now, for those of you that don't know, Scrambling is something of a halfway point between pure rock climbing and walking. The terrain is more of a collection of small boulders with decent hand and foot holds than a flat rock face, and is relatively easy to ascend with the correct gear - you don't even really need ropes or protection unless you move onto really exposed stuff. It was my first taste of pure, graded scrambling (although we didn't follow a specific 'route'...Tryfan doesn't really have any) and if I'm honest it's damn fun. Yes there were some bits that were rather committing, and more than once I was thankful for the almost physics-bending grip and stiffness of my Mammut Monolith B2 boots, and I was slow and the weight and size of my rucksack made some of it rather sketchy but it was absolutely awesome to play mountaineer and actually climb a mountain.



After a slightly embarrassing event involving a dropped piece of tent, we made the summit both taking the time to jump Adam and Eve, the two crowning rocks on Tryfan's summit, and then set on the descent back down towards the Far South Peak and Glyder Fach. Originally the plan had been to climb up to the summit of Glyder Fach, then descend  towards Llyn Bochlwyd where we would set up camp. However, when we got down to Bwlch Tryfan, the mini-valley between the two peaks, we decided we were too lazy, too cold and the car was far too close to really justify staying out. So we made the executive decision to go back into Llanberis, find somewhere to sleep, grab a pint and some food and enjoy a comfortable night.

Crossing the complex of fords on the descent from
Tryfan, in blowing wind. Sketchy.

Charlie on Adam & Eve. We were the only people out of
around 20 at the summit to do it. Frankly I was dissappointed.

In the end, after the YHA we'd stayed in on Friday night confirmed they were full, we found a home in Pete's Eats. Anyone familiar with Llanberis over the past three decades will be familiar with Pete's, on the Llanberis high street. Theirs is a nirvana for tired, hungry climbers and walkers - free wifi, free charging, massive plates of food and (if you need it) a cheap, comfy bed for the night or even the simple pleasure of a hot shower. Honestly can't recommend them enough, and will even go as far as to give them a shout out here; if you ever need anything in Llanberis (even if it's just advice on a good route to take), they'll help you out. Find them at: www.petes-eats.co.uk


Crib Goch
Sunday was going to be shorter - we had a 6 hour drive home ahead of us, so instead of doing a massive loop, we decided to take on the infamous ridgeline of Crib Goch.

After another long slog of a walk-in, exhausting and sweaty in heavy mountain boots and windproofs we made it over the granny stopper at the bottom of the route, and I headed off to break my Crib virginity.The scrambling was technical and relentless, although the shedding of 90% of the weight from our packs certainly helped to make the moves easier. We weren't alone on the ridgeline, but it did somewhat concern the pair of us the quality and suitability of the kit and expertise of the groups we met. Whilst you may be able to do the Crib in sturdy trainers and a light jacket in a dry, clear summer's day, but on a windy, cold and damp November afternoon it's downright dangerous.

Unfortunately the ridgeline of Crib Goch itself doesn't really lend itself to intense conversation, so I was left alone for a lot of the time, but I've found that it's quite nice. Just being alone with the conditions, the mountain and your own thoughts is a beautiful thing. Every now and then I'd catch up with Charlie, we'd enjoy a cup of tea and then set back off along the seemingly never-ending ridge. We'd be held up now and then as we negotiated an overtake over another group, but mainly for me was just the faint, yellow bobbing shape at the edge of my vision and a uniformly grey skybox. The cloud was low and the conditions were windy and cold (but thankfully largely dry) so there wasn't a huge amount to see, but it was fun, committing and technical. There isn't really much else to say really, the pictures do that for me!

(I'm still waiting for Charlie to send me the pictures from Day 2, as my phone had died. Pester him for me, would you? There's a good reader.)

We decided to not do the Snowdon summit; it's something we've both done before and we were hardly going to see anything special, so it was time for the long (but rather quick, it seemed) decent down the miner's path to the car, a well-deserved bottle of lucozade and the long slog home, to the realities of life.

It's always sad to leave the mountains, but it just means I'll have to go back for more. And soon.

Now all I have to look forward to is a Scottish winter. Oh wait...that's going to be amazing. Psyched!